tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12926078819401152442024-03-13T23:56:18.437-07:00On My Mind, by Antoinette MatlinsAntoinette Matlinshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15621798508510551819noreply@blogger.comBlogger12125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1292607881940115244.post-55323147981085229382016-01-15T12:46:00.000-08:002016-01-18T06:00:54.175-08:00The Esperanza - All American Diamond<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%;">I read a fascinating story about the discovery of another diamond in Arkansas this past summer. But it was only recently that I learned the <i>whole</i> story, written by Bryan Boyne, GG, who has graciously given me permission to post it here. There is also link to a video I think you will also enjoy.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%;">Wow, this is the dream of a lifetime! I don't know of anyone who doesn't
dream of finding a treasure, and what could be more thrilling than finding one
of nature's own creations, and especially in the Crater of Diamonds Park in
Arkansas; there can certainly be no question of "origin" here, and
its name is so appropriate as well. I've written about Crater Park in several
of my books, but it is especially thrilling to find they are still being found,
and even more thrilling to see such wonderful collaboration between the person
who found it and others whose experience and insights are so critical to making
sure this gem receives the attention it deserves: the American Gem Society
(AGS), a local jeweler (Stanley Jewelers), an amazing cutter, and an
exceptionally gifted Arkansas jewelry designer to craft the piece....and to
build a mini-factory in the state in which it was found to handle the cutting
and setting was sheer "brilliance" (to be expected, of course, with
such a fabulous diamond)! I can hardly wait for the unveiling of the finished
jewel!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
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<u><span style="color: blue; font-size: 11.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="http://www.whiteflash.com/about-diamonds/news/the-esperanza-all-american-diamond-1488.htm">http://www.whiteflash.com/about-diamonds/news/the-esperanza-all-american-diamond-1488.htm</a></span></u><span style="font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="color: #b4b1a0; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span style="color: #b4b1a0; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><b><br /></b></span>Antoinette Matlinshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15621798508510551819noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1292607881940115244.post-89002273148993668982014-07-15T06:57:00.002-07:002014-07-15T07:13:29.546-07:00Want to learn more about Rose Gold? Read my recent contributions in The Knot to broaden your knowledge about this reemerging trend in jewelry.<br />
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">A Rose by Any Other Name</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Rose
gold is back in a big way</span><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">—this ultra-romantic accessory is the perfect pick for your wedding,</span> <span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">and also for years to come.</span></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">By Yelena Moroz Alpert</span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Photograph by Devon Jarvis</span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">@morozy
@theknot</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">An
Imperial History</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Long
before rose gold shined on today’s Hollywood stars</span><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">, jewelers </span></span><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">of
19th-century Europe and Russia were creating intricate 14-karat </span><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">pieces
that filled the jewelry boxes of aristocrats and royalty</span><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">. “In </span></span><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Victorian
England</span><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">, rose gold was referred to as ‘lover’s gold,’ making </span></span><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">it a
popular choice for engagement rings</span><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">,” says Jamie Cadwell Gage </span></span><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">of </span><a href="http://lovegold.com/"><span style="color: purple; font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">LoveGold.com</span></a>. <span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">In fact, Queen Victoria herself
was a collector of </span></span><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">the
pink metal.…</span> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">READ MORE ON </span><a href="http://static.squarespace.com/static/50cdfbe5e4b0409d2445a05c/t/53855d02e4b0699d85b2d51a/1401249026282/TheKnot_RoseGoldJewelry.pdf"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">TheKnot.com</span></a></span>Antoinette Matlinshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15621798508510551819noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1292607881940115244.post-4791665351802099032013-10-27T08:29:00.001-07:002013-10-27T08:29:22.948-07:00How Do “Antique” & “Period” Jewelry Differ From Each Other?
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In most countries, including the USA, any piece of
jewelry sold as "antique" <i>must</i> <i>be</i> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">at least </i><i>100 years old</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All too often the terms
"antique" and "period" are used interchangeably and this is
incorrect and confusing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So let’s
clarify the terms.</div>
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"Period"
refers to various time periods in which a particular style evolves and is
popular for a certain span of time; it applies to many areas including art, architecture and jewelry. Some "period" jewelry can be
antique, and there is always some degree of overlap in each "period.". Some "period" jewelry is also "antique," but most jewelry from
collectible periods cannot be called "antique."</div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></div>
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Currently the
most popular and collectible jewelry "periods" include the "Victorian" period (1830s to 1900), La Belle Epoque (from 1870s till approx 1915), Art Nouveau
(approx 1895-1915),
Edwardian (approx 1900-1915), Art Deco
(1915-into the 1930s), and Retro (1940s-early 1950s). All "Victorian" jewelry is "antique," and most of the Belle Epoque, Art Nouveau and Edwardian jewelry can also be described as "antique," but this is usually not the case with jewelry from the Art Deco and Retro periods. </div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"></span>While
there is an overlap in the time frame for each period, each is
characterized by certain design elements that have influenced the look of that period; we see it reflected in art, furniture, architecture, and so on. Certain design elements that have come to define the look of that particular "age" are also seen in jewelry. Here we see it in the very lines of the jewelry itself, as well as the use of certain gemstones, styles
of cutting, and size and color of stones used. All of these elements help connoisseurs and collectors recognize a piece as being from a particular "period." <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </div>
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Authentic
"period" pieces are highly sought after and are more costly than contemporary jewelry. This is not only because of the workmanship seen in such pieces but also because of their rarity; keep in mind most jewelry, over time, is often
dramatically altered, or the stones removed and reused in a more contemporary
piece, so true examples of the period are much rarer than those
that are altered or reproduced along the style of a certain period. </div>
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The
names of certain designers or great jewelry houses are also often associated
with the finest examples of each "period" and these can add
dramatically to the value/cost of authentic pieces. For example, in the
Victorian period, pieces made by the Italian master, Castellani, add
dramatically to desirability and value; his works were truly masterpieces. And
the firm of Cartier probably stands out beyond all other jewelry houses for its
Art Deco wonders, including some of the most amazing clocks – the Mystery
Clocks – ever produced. And there are other great makers, designers, and jewelry houses that stand out during each period.</div>
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Reproductions, however, and authentic <i>settings</i> in which stones have been replaced with inferior or synthetic stones are often encountered in the marketplace. So much greater care must be
taken to find a highly qualified gemologist or gemologist-appraiser to confirm any <i>antique</i> or <i>period</i> jewel is what it <i>appears</i> to be<i>.</i> </div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>You
can find more information on specific design elements that can be seen in each
period, along with the great masters and jewelry houses associated with each, and the types of fraud and misrepresentation you need to guard against in my books <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Jewelry
& Gems: The Buying Guide</i></b> (6th & 7<sup>th</sup> editions only)
and <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Jewelry
& Gems At Auction</i></b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></i>(Gemstonepress.com).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>
Antoinette Matlinshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15621798508510551819noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1292607881940115244.post-52272606486759415322013-07-19T10:57:00.001-07:002013-07-19T10:57:33.786-07:00Regarding The Recent Diamond Segment on ABC News The Lookout!<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i></i></span></span></h2>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">For those of you who saw the recent segment on ABC News (if not, see links below) on "clarity enhanced" diamonds -- that is, diamonds that have visible cracks that are made invisible by filling them with lead-glass -- I'd like to make a few important consumer observations.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">In
our investigation, it was quite apparent that had ABC's reporter, Dan Harris, not been with me, the situation could have had a very unhappy ending. Had he been like every other young man looking for a better price by
going to 47th street (and who, when asked about budget, often throw out
a "much lower" number in the hope of getting an even better "deal"), he'd probably never have known what he had really bought, and if he did, probably not until it was too late. Whether deliberate, or the result of ignorance, the
buyer, in this case Dan, was exploited and did not get what he thought
he was getting. <br /> </span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">The only way that most consumers ever really know what they have purchased in diamond wholesale districts around the world is to take them to an independent,<i> qualified </i>appraiser for confirmation of the facts. In these situations, what they learn may be very upsetting ... and it may get even worse.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">It is rare that consumers can get a refund -- unless they've asked the <i>right</i> questions and <i>gotten the answers to those questions, in writing,</i> on the sales receipt. As shown in the ABC report, however, few people ask the right questions, or get honest answers, but t<i>here is always something in the
paperwork that mentions clarity enhancement (CE)</i>. I know of two cases in which the buyers found
out, after the purchase, and when the seller wouldn't refund what was
paid, took the time and money to take the sellers to court ... and in both cases, the consumers <i>lost! </i>The
reason was that the <i>seller</i> could show that the sales receipt
indicated the stone was clarity enhanced. In both cases the sellers insisted the evidence (the sales receipts and fictitious lab reports) showed that the buyer knew what he/she was purchasing from the start; that all of the
facts had been disclosed at the time of the purchase. Also, both vendors insisted the buyer <i>had been led by the appraiser to regret having purchased a clarity enhanced diamond and that the problem was the appraisers! </i>Since
the documentation -- the seller's receipt and lab report
both indicated "CE", and since, unlike Dan, the buyer had nothing to
prove what really happened, the court ruled against the innocent
consumer adding that the "unscrupulous" seller was being very generous to offer to let them exchange their diamonds for something else!</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><br />Here's
what breaks my heart, especially in times when people are feeling
economic pressure and money is tight. Special moments are special, and
people want to mark or celebrate the moment, whether it's with an
engagement ring or other beautiful diamond gift. <span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Then, to be exploited by the unscrupulous, really mars the moment...often forever. And here is where everyone loses. </span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">A few other points should also be made about going to 47th Street and the total experience (since so much ended on the cutting room floor).</span><div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span class="comment-body" data-li-comment-text="The saddest part is that the 47th Street Development Corp, in tandem with the JVC, has been trying to "clean up the street" and there have definitely been improvements. But the problem is still much too pervasive and I don't see why legal actions can't be taken against those whose intentions are clearly to make the sale by deception. This is why we showed these two sellers, in particular. It was clear that they knew exactly what they were doing; that they were "withholding" important information. This was evident since they never mentioned "CE" (don't you just love the term). Their intent was clear since they didn't mention a thing ...until WE did! And then they just lied about what it was -- part of the cutting/polishing and a GOOD thing that just makes the diamond sparkle more!
While we found that there were people deliberately deceiving, we also became very aware of just how extensive general lack of knowledge remains among sales people "on the street" (and I might add, in EVERY "wholesale" district -- not just 47th street). In addition to the two vendors shown on-air, and there were many others we COULD have shown who were equally guilty. The big difference between now and the segment from a few years ago is that there were ALSO many others who, when they heard what Dan's budget was, immediately said there are "two types of diamonds: natural and CE". This was a major improvement over the way it was a few years ago. Then when we asked what a CE diamond was, we were also told they SELL FOR LESS, and that this is BECAUSE "SOMETHING" IS DONE TO THEM to make them look better than when they come out of the ground. This was also good: they acknowledged there was a reason for the lower price. Unfortunately, the scene broke down when we asked WHAT was done and whether or not the diamond might change to something less pretty over time. These sales people didn't know what it actually was (some made it up and some said they didn't know because it was a very high tech process), but none indicated the appearance might change, nor did any mention there was a glass filler.
My sense was that this was more a case of ignorance among the seller than any intent to deceive, but nonetheless, the buyer isn't given ALL the information they NEED to make an INFORMED decision about what to buy.
Personally I'd like to see a requirement that anyone selling glass-filled diamonds on 47th Street (or other "wholesale" districts) MUST provide prospective buyers with a pamphlet or fact sheet (ie what Yehuda uses) at the point of purchase, before the buyer makes a decision. This way, we could remove the burden from unknowing sales people to disclose properly. But would anyone like to wager on the odds of something like this happening?! And what would be the penalty if they didn't comply?
I hereby throw down the gauntlet to the 47th Street Development Corp and the JVC!">While we found that there were people deliberately deceiving, we
also became very aware of just how extensive general lack of knowledge
remains among sales people "on the street" (and I might add, in EVERY
"wholesale" district -- not just 47th street). In addition to the two
vendors shown on-air, there were many others we COULD have shown who
were equally guilty. </span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span class="comment-body" data-li-comment-text="The saddest part is that the 47th Street Development Corp, in tandem with the JVC, has been trying to "clean up the street" and there have definitely been improvements. But the problem is still much too pervasive and I don't see why legal actions can't be taken against those whose intentions are clearly to make the sale by deception. This is why we showed these two sellers, in particular. It was clear that they knew exactly what they were doing; that they were "withholding" important information. This was evident since they never mentioned "CE" (don't you just love the term). Their intent was clear since they didn't mention a thing ...until WE did! And then they just lied about what it was -- part of the cutting/polishing and a GOOD thing that just makes the diamond sparkle more!
While we found that there were people deliberately deceiving, we also became very aware of just how extensive general lack of knowledge remains among sales people "on the street" (and I might add, in EVERY "wholesale" district -- not just 47th street). In addition to the two vendors shown on-air, and there were many others we COULD have shown who were equally guilty. The big difference between now and the segment from a few years ago is that there were ALSO many others who, when they heard what Dan's budget was, immediately said there are "two types of diamonds: natural and CE". This was a major improvement over the way it was a few years ago. Then when we asked what a CE diamond was, we were also told they SELL FOR LESS, and that this is BECAUSE "SOMETHING" IS DONE TO THEM to make them look better than when they come out of the ground. This was also good: they acknowledged there was a reason for the lower price. Unfortunately, the scene broke down when we asked WHAT was done and whether or not the diamond might change to something less pretty over time. These sales people didn't know what it actually was (some made it up and some said they didn't know because it was a very high tech process), but none indicated the appearance might change, nor did any mention there was a glass filler.
My sense was that this was more a case of ignorance among the seller than any intent to deceive, but nonetheless, the buyer isn't given ALL the information they NEED to make an INFORMED decision about what to buy.
Personally I'd like to see a requirement that anyone selling glass-filled diamonds on 47th Street (or other "wholesale" districts) MUST provide prospective buyers with a pamphlet or fact sheet (ie what Yehuda uses) at the point of purchase, before the buyer makes a decision. This way, we could remove the burden from unknowing sales people to disclose properly. But would anyone like to wager on the odds of something like this happening?! And what would be the penalty if they didn't comply?
I hereby throw down the gauntlet to the 47th Street Development Corp and the JVC!">The big difference between now and the segment
from a few years ago is that there were also many others who did, in fact, mention "CE" the moment they heard what Dan's budget was These people actually volunteered information, explaining there are "<i>two types of
diamonds: natural and CE"</i>. This was a major improvement over the way it
was a few years ago. When we asked what a CE diamond was, we were
also told they <i>"sell for less because something is done to make them look better than they do when they come out of the ground." </i>This was also good: they acknowledged there was a reason for the
lower price. </span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span class="comment-body" data-li-comment-text="The saddest part is that the 47th Street Development Corp, in tandem with the JVC, has been trying to "clean up the street" and there have definitely been improvements. But the problem is still much too pervasive and I don't see why legal actions can't be taken against those whose intentions are clearly to make the sale by deception. This is why we showed these two sellers, in particular. It was clear that they knew exactly what they were doing; that they were "withholding" important information. This was evident since they never mentioned "CE" (don't you just love the term). Their intent was clear since they didn't mention a thing ...until WE did! And then they just lied about what it was -- part of the cutting/polishing and a GOOD thing that just makes the diamond sparkle more!
While we found that there were people deliberately deceiving, we also became very aware of just how extensive general lack of knowledge remains among sales people "on the street" (and I might add, in EVERY "wholesale" district -- not just 47th street). In addition to the two vendors shown on-air, and there were many others we COULD have shown who were equally guilty. The big difference between now and the segment from a few years ago is that there were ALSO many others who, when they heard what Dan's budget was, immediately said there are "two types of diamonds: natural and CE". This was a major improvement over the way it was a few years ago. Then when we asked what a CE diamond was, we were also told they SELL FOR LESS, and that this is BECAUSE "SOMETHING" IS DONE TO THEM to make them look better than when they come out of the ground. This was also good: they acknowledged there was a reason for the lower price. Unfortunately, the scene broke down when we asked WHAT was done and whether or not the diamond might change to something less pretty over time. These sales people didn't know what it actually was (some made it up and some said they didn't know because it was a very high tech process), but none indicated the appearance might change, nor did any mention there was a glass filler.
My sense was that this was more a case of ignorance among the seller than any intent to deceive, but nonetheless, the buyer isn't given ALL the information they NEED to make an INFORMED decision about what to buy.
Personally I'd like to see a requirement that anyone selling glass-filled diamonds on 47th Street (or other "wholesale" districts) MUST provide prospective buyers with a pamphlet or fact sheet (ie what Yehuda uses) at the point of purchase, before the buyer makes a decision. This way, we could remove the burden from unknowing sales people to disclose properly. But would anyone like to wager on the odds of something like this happening?! And what would be the penalty if they didn't comply?
I hereby throw down the gauntlet to the 47th Street Development Corp and the JVC!">Unfortunately, the scene broke down when we asked WHAT was
done, and whether or not the diamond might change to something less
pretty over time. These people really didn't know what the CE process actually was
(some made it up and some said they didn't know because it was a very
high tech process). And even wore, none indicated the appearance was not "permanent" and might change. But In these cases I think it was more a case of ignorance among the
seller than any intent to deceive. Nonetheless, going into the heart of the "diamond wholesale" district to buy a diamond all-too-often results in buyers being denied ALL the information they NEED to make an INFORMED decision about
what to buy.</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<br /><div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Video: </span></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="http://abcnews.go.com/watch/nightline/SH5584743/VDKA0_espeu0ii/the-lookout-710"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">http://abcnews.go.com/watch/nightline/SH5584743/VDKA0_espeu0ii/the-lookout-710</span></a></span></div>
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<a href="http://abcnews.go.com/Nightline/diamonds-decoded-experts-guide-buying-engagement-ring/story?id=19630519#.Ud4ygVN-Y7A"></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">Article: </span></div>
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<a href="http://abcnews.go.com/Nightline/diamonds-decoded-experts-guide-buying-engagement-ring/story?id=19630519#.Ud4ygVN-Y7A">http://abcnews.go.com/Nightline/diamonds-decoded-experts-guide-buying-engagement-ring/story?id=19630519#.Ud4ygVN-Y7A</a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="http://abcnews.go.com/watch/nightline/SH5584743/VDKA0_espeu0ii/the-lookout-710"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"></span></a></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 16.0pt;"></span></div>
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Antoinette Matlinshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15621798508510551819noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1292607881940115244.post-58379490630810964112013-03-16T13:25:00.000-07:002013-03-16T14:47:59.012-07:00Lead-Glass Filled "Ruby" -- A Study in Misrepresentation and Deception!
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<b><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Lead-Glass Filled
Ruby:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<b><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">A Case Study in
Misrepresentation and Deception </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">I
find it very disturbing that there are still many people in the gem and jewelry
field who do not yet understand how lead-glass “rubies” – now identified by
leading gem testing laboratories such as the Gemological Institute of America
(GIA) and American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) as artificial
products--differ from rubies that are sold, legitimately, as “treated” rubies.
Some jewelers and gemologists are even objecting to what the laboratories are
calling them and continue to sell them and identify them as "treated
rubies." Tragically, because of confusion about what they <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">really</i> are, and how they differ from
treated products, these imitators are now flooding the market here and abroad,
and selling at greatly inflated prices. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">I
felt so strongly about the unprecedented issues these lead-glass imitators
present, that I added extensive information about them in the latest edition of
my book<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Jewelry & Gems: The Buying
Guide</i> (Seventh Edition) and an entire new chapter to the Fifth Edition of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Gem Identification Made Easy</i> (which just
rolled off press a month ago). Since we are now in a "social media” era,
however, let me attempt here to clarify the differences, and why selling
lead-glass products as genuine “treated” ruby is misleading and deceptive. It
is long for a "blog" but I hope you'll read it through to the end.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">As
many know, heat treatment of ruby and sapphire has become the norm over the
past half century, and this type of treatment is “assumed” when buying most
rubies and sapphires today. In more recent years, we’ve also see more extreme
levels of heating which require borax coatings, in which the borax can melt and
leave “residue” in fissures. We've also seen the introduction of glass-fillings
into fractures to reduce their visibility. A few years ago, however, we began
to see a new ruby product at gem shows, offered for a few dollars per carat.
Most were represented as being “treated by heat only.” It wasn’t long before
gemologists discovered this was not the case. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">Many
gemologists and appraisers began receiving calls from bench jewelers who were
finding out – the hard way – that these new “rubies” were not behaving like any
ruby they’d ever handled! We began to realize that routine jewelry techniques
caused extensive damage that was irreparable! Unlucky bench jewelers who
“destroyed” one of these new “ruby” products while doing “routine” jewelry
work, suffered damage to their reputations, loss of customers, and were held
financially responsible by retailers and/or consumers. This type of reaction at
the bench, and the consequences faced by bench jewelers, was unheard of…until
the lead-glass “rubies” entered the market. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">Gemologists
had to ask, what’s different about these? Why don’t they respond as ruby <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">should </i>respond? So beginning several
years ago gemologists from the Accredited Gemologists Association (AGA),
myself among them, began to purchase stones from various vendors, at various
shows, and we undertook research on the stones themselves, as well as how they
were being represented and priced.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">Gemological
examination of the stones revealed unprecedented quantities of glass – a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">lead</i>-glass in particular – combined with
an undeterminable quantity of corundum (the mineral known as ruby only when it
occurs in a red color with good transparency, or “sapphire” when it is blue or
any other color in which nature creates it); we discovered the
"rubies" were actually a “blend” of two materials that are altogether
different in terms of physical properties. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">The
first difference noted was that the glass used in these products was not a “silica”
glass – the type of glass used in traditionally “glass filled” rubies – but a formulation
of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">lead glass. </i>The reasons that the
producers of this new product would use lead-glass became clear very quickly: lead-glass
is essential because it makes it impossible to see where the glass and corundum
begin and end! The high “refractive index” (RI) obtained by introducing lead
into the glass is virtually identical to the RI of corundum, which means it is
impossible to distinguish one from the other. Furthermore, one of the most
important tests used to identify any gemstone – using a refractometer to
determine a stone's RI – will give the same reading for the lead-glass ruby as
for a treated or natural ruby, even if the stone is situated on the
refractometer so that the part of the stone being tested is actually glass, RI reading
will be the same as that of ruby! (For a full explanation of what RI actually is
and why it is so important, see below – What Is RI And How Does It Affect
Quality Grading). </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">Subsequent
research by AGA members, in association with several of the world’s leading
gem-testing laboratories, revealed that <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">the
lead-glass becomes an integral part of the blended product and cannot be
removed without destroying the "gem.” </i> This is an important
difference between this product and "treated" ruby because the
properties of the blended product are no longer the same as the properties of
"ruby." The properties are, in fact, very different. This, combined
with their inseparability, means the lead-glass “ruby” may <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">look like ruby </i>but it <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">won’t
act like ruby!</i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></i><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">In
addition, the lead-glass component represents a much higher percentage of the
stone than what is found in “treated rubies.” The silica glass used in
traditional treatment is used simply to <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">reduce</i>
the visibility of the fracture(s), and thus, the amount of silica glass used in
the treatment of ruby or sapphire is <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">very</i>
minimal. Even more important, silica glass has a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">much</i> lower RI than lead-glass, so the fractures can be seen when
the stone is properly examined; silica glass doesn’t “hide” the fractures (and
if there were any question, silica glass <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">can</i>
be removed without damage to the stone should there be any need to do so, and
in the rare case where the glass comes out of the ruby for any reason, it can
be re-filled). </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">These
are critical differences between “treated ruby” and the lead-glass products: 1)
It is impossible to see where the glass actually <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">is </i>so you cannot determine how much of the stone is glass versus
ruby; 2) the two very different materials become inseparable. Without the lead
glass, there is no ”ruby<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">”</i> in terms of
color and transparency, but <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">with</i> the
lead-glass, the physical properties are so altered that the resulting “ruby”
lacks the characteristics that make “ruby” a ruby. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">The
process by which lead-glass ruby is produced requires the fusion of these two
very different materials, but the result is something that is no longer ruby
nor glass. Instead, the product is a new type of imitation that combines the
properties of two very different materials, each inseparable from the other. In
short, they are a new type of “composite,” an imitation created from two or
more materials being joined together in some way, to imitate a rarer and more
costly gem. Composites can be formed from two or more parts of a genuine stone,
or two or more parts of an imitation or synthetic, or from a combination of
genuine and artificial. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">This
new product is now being<span style="color: #ff6600;"> </span>sold as “treated
ruby,” at inflated prices, and poses a serious threat to consumers that was
unknown at the time of the last FTC review over<span style="color: #ff6600;"> </span>10
years ago. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">The
AGA collected numerous real-life examples of the problems created as a result
of selling this product as ruby when the most important physical
characteristics associated with ruby—its toughness, hardness, and overall
durability, ranking it next to diamond in terms of these characteristics—is not
present in this new product; these composites are not only <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">less</i> durable, they are <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">very</i>
fragile. For those interested in reading about these specific cases, please go
to FTC website to read the attachments to the AGA submission (the first one
listed): <a href="http://www.ftc.gov/os/comments/jewelryguidesreview/index.shtm">http://www.ftc.gov/os/comments/jewelryguidesreview/index.shtm</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">In
addition, the lead-glass component has other adverse effects on the ability of
anyone selling this product to be in compliance with <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">current</i> FTC guidelines related to: a) identity of the stone; b)
carat weight; c) quality; d) disclosure related to care requirements; and e)
value. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">The
lead-glass products now in the market are being misrepresented specifically<span style="color: red;"> </span>as to their “type,” “kind,” “quality,” “weight,”
“durability,” and “value” as specified by the FTC guides:</span></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-top: .1pt; mso-list: l7 level1 lfo5; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd; tab-stops: list .5in;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Kind</span></b><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;">: The
lead-glass products are being misrepresented as “treated ruby” when the
altered material no longer has the properties of ruby. This lead-glass
product is neither ruby nor glass, but a new type of imitation that
combines properties of both glass and corundum, each of which is inseparable
from the other. </span><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></li>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="circle">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-top: .1pt; mso-list: l7 level2 lfo5; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd; tab-stops: list 1.0in;"><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;">They
have been clearly identified by the two most highly respected gem-testing
laboratories in the USA—the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and
American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) as products that are not genuine
ruby, treated or otherwise. GIA identifies them as “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">manufactured products</i>,” and AGL identifies them as “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">composite ruby.</i>” </span><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-top: .1pt; mso-list: l7 level2 lfo5; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd; tab-stops: list 1.0in;"><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;"> Both
labs include comments pertaining to presence of significant amounts of
lead-glass, and the need for unusual care. The AGL laboratory states: “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">the product has been heavily treated
using a high refractive index lead-glass to fill fractures and cavities,
vastly improving the apparent clarity and adding weight. The glass may be
damaged by a variety of solvents.</i>” </span><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-top: .1pt; mso-list: l7 level2 lfo5; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd; tab-stops: list 1.0in;"><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;">There
are devastating consequences resulting from using traditional techniques
on these lead-glass “rubies” at the bench—extreme and irreparable damage—<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">not ever associated with any other
ruby that has been subjected to any type of treatment, including the use
of silica glass to reduce the visibility of fractures, but which is
unique to the lead-glass product. </i>Lead-glass products may look like
ruby, but they are products that lacks the durability of ruby, a very
important characteristic long associated with ruby.</span><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></li>
</ul>
</ul>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-top: .1pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo6; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd; tab-stops: list .5in;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Quality</span></b><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;">:
Because of the composition of the product, and the extensive amounts of
lead-glass, no one can know the true quality of the product because it is
impossible to do accurate color and clarity grading—the two most critical
factors involved in determining the quality and value of any gemstone.
Lead-glass products cannot be accurately graded for 3 primary reasons:</span><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></li>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="circle">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-top: .1pt; mso-list: l1 level2 lfo6; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd; tab-stops: list 1.0in;"><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;"> <u>The
high refractive index (RI) of the lead-glass conceals the
fissures/fractures</u>, making it impossible to determine how many there
are, how deeply they penetrate into the stone, and thus, how great a risk
they pose with regard to breakage in the course of normal wear. (See
below for an explanation of what the RI is and how it affects quality and
clarity grading).</span><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-top: .1pt; mso-list: l1 level2 lfo6; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd; tab-stops: list 1.0in;"><u><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;">The
filler cannot be removed</span></u><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;">. Another important distinction
between lead-glass fillers and other fillers used routinely to treat<span style="color: red;"> </span>ruby/sapphire to improve appearance—and which
can rightly<span style="color: red;"> </span>be sold as “treated ruby”—is
seen in whether or not the filler can be removed for any reason. Other
fillers, including common silica glass, oil, or epoxy resins, can be
removed in cases where this might be necessary to determine whether or
not a coloring agent has been added to the filler, or to ascertain how
much filler—how heavily filled—the stone is (as with epoxy resins used in
emerald). In the case of the lead-glass filler used in these
stones, the lead-glass used to create the product cannot be removed from
the stone without destroying the stone’s structural cohesiveness;
attempts to remove the lead-glass result in the destruction of the stone
(it crumbles or falls apart). </span><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-top: .1pt; mso-list: l1 level2 lfo6; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd; tab-stops: list 1.0in;"><u><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;">The
lead-glass filler is <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">not</i> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">colorless</i></span></u><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;">. The
lead-glass is usually tinted. When analyzed, the lead-glass used has been
tinted in order to improve the color seen in the finished product, so one
cannot know what the actual color is. </span><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></li>
</ul>
</ul>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-top: .1pt; mso-list: l3 level1 lfo7; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd; tab-stops: list .5in;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Weight</span></b><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;">: Ruby
weight is indeterminable with these products. Lead-glass weighs much more
than ruby, but since the lead-glass cannot be removed, and its high RI
makes it impossible to ascertain exactly how much glass versus ruby is in
a particular stone without expensive, sophisticated instrumentation, it is
not possible to accurately determine the weight of the ruby component. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Therefore you cannot calculate the
actual ruby weight, which the FTC guides already mandate</i>. The only thing
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">certain</i> about the ruby weight is
that it is <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">less than the weight
indicated for the entire stone, </i>and in many cases, much less.<br />
This has been noted by respected laboratories
around the world, and is indicated on the AGL reports on lead-glass products.
One can only estimate the percentage of ruby versus glass in the stone
based on the presence of characteristics found only in glass (bubbles,
blue-flash, surface crazing), or only in ruby, but a precise weight cannot
be known.</span><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-top: .1pt; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo8; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd; tab-stops: list .5in;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Durability</span></b><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;">:
Lead-glass products lack the durability of ruby: <br />
o <u>Lead-glass is much softer than ruby</u> (and other glasses
used in treatments) and wears more quickly than ruby.<br />
o <u>Lead-glass is much more vulnerable to scratching, chipping and
breaking</u> with normal wear.<br />
o <u>Lead-glass is vulnerable to acid-etching by many substances</u>,
including lemon juice.<br />
o <u>Lead-glass composites are quickly and irreparably damaged
by techniques that have been routinely used for centuries on ruby or
treated ruby</u>; these techniques include the use of heat, chemicals and
acids that are routine in making or repairing jewelry containing such
products.<br />
o <u>The “joins”—the planes—between the lead-glass and ruby
weaken the overall structure of the product</u>, making them more
susceptible to damage from an accidental knock or blow. </span><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-top: .1pt; mso-list: l5 level1 lfo9; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd; tab-stops: list .5in;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Value</span></b><span style="font-family: "\0022Times New Roman\0022"; font-size: 10.0pt;">:
Lead-glass rubies are being sold to consumers for hundreds to thousands of
dollars per carat, when the cost should be 5-10 times less than what they
are paying. Within the trade, lead-glass rubies under 5 carats each
originally entered the market at prices between $1.00-5.00 per
carat. Today, trade acceptance of these as “just another type of treated
ruby” has resulted in sharply higher prices for the same sizes/qualities,
now costing $10.00-20.00 per carat. Jewelry containing these stones is
being sold by some vendors to the trade at highly inflated prices, which
are then even more highly inflated when sold to consumers.<br />
o <u>Retailers purchasing jewelry pieces containing these
stones are told they are rubies and are themselves paying very inflated
prices for the pieces they buy, and then passing on their mistake to their
customers at even higher prices.</u> While they are easy to distinguish
from rubies or treated rubies, most jewelry retailers have not taken the
time to learn what the distinguishing characteristics are, and describe
and price what they sell based on what they are being told by vendors, who
often are doing the same thing with regard to their own sources.<br />
o <u>The unscrupulous are misrepresenting them knowingly</u>,
and selling them at huge profits.<br />
It is for the foregoing reasons that I have been – and remain – strongly
committed to making the public and trade alike that these are not “genuine
rubies” in any way and should not be sold as ruby or “treated ruby.” </span><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">The
FTC is currently revising its guides for the jewelry trade, and I believe it is
essential that the FTC understand how these lead-glass filled ruby products
differ from other products in the market that are accurately described as
“treated ruby” (or sapphire, or other gemstone name), and how selling them as
“ruby” or “treated ruby” violates current FTC guides. I encourage anyone who
agrees with me to send a letter to the FTC asking that the guides for the
jewelry trade be revised to make it a misleading and deceptive trade practice
to sell lead-glass filled rubies and sapphires as genuine ruby, treated or
otherwise, as anything other that a composite product or other terminology that
makes it clear they are not ruby or sapphire. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">It
should be noted that you must also be very cautious about buying any blue,
green, pink and yellow sapphire since this same type of product is now
imitating these other colors of corundum and have different physical
characteristics, a much lower value, and the need for special care to avoid
breakage or severe and irreparable damage. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">Footnote</span></b><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">: <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">What Is “RI” and How Does It Affect Quality Grading?</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">The
refractive index of a stone relates to how light moves through, and between,
different media—in this case, ruby and glass. The greater the difference
between the RI of each substance, the more easily one can see important
internal characteristics; the closer the RI, the more difficult it is to see
them. If the RI is essentially the same for both substances, one cannot
distinguish where one ends and the other begins. This is why other types of
glasses sometimes seen in ruby (usually silica glass) are different from these
lead-glass products and can be sold as "treated ruby;" they have
lower RIs so one can actually see where the fracture is and properly grade the
stone. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;"> The
RI of lead-glass is almost a perfect match to that of ruby. This means that as
light moves through the stone, one cannot see where one substance ends and the
other begins. This is why, in lead-glass products, one can’t see the fractures,
and thus can’t evaluate the stone’s clarity. It is virtually impossible to
determine how deep or wide—how dangerous—any fractures or fissures might be.
Even a single fracture can be extremely dangerous and severely affect the
clarity rating, depending on where it is located and how far it penetrates into
the stone, and thus its longevity and value.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">Below
one can see how the quantity of lead present affects the RI—the more lead, the
higher the RI. It is clear that the percentage of lead present in the glass
used on these rubies is very high:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .1pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .1pt; mso-para-margin-bottom: .01gd; mso-para-margin-left: 0in; mso-para-margin-right: 0in; mso-para-margin-top: .01gd;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">RI's For Various Glasses:</span></b><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">Glass,
Fused silica: RI =
1.459</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">Glass,
Pyrex
RI = 1.474 </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">Glass,
Flint, 29% lead RI = 1.569 </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">Glass,
Flint, 55% lead RI = 1.669 </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">Glass,
Flint, 71% lead RI = 1.805 </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 10.0pt;">The
RI of corundum (ruby/sapphire) is 1.76-1.77. From this chart you can see that
in order to have the same RI, the lead content in the glass must be in the
range of 68-69%. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The amount of lead in
the glass also accounts for it weighing so much more than ruby, or other
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</style> Antoinette Matlinshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15621798508510551819noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1292607881940115244.post-53359025777625564672013-01-12T09:42:00.003-08:002013-01-12T09:42:48.595-08:00Estate Jewelry: Art and Deception!I love "estate" jewelry--old jewelry that was previously owned--but there seems to be a misconception that <i>all</i> older jewelry offers better workmanship and finer gems than what is made today. I recently saw something about this on one of the social media sites, and realized I needed to provide some facts to set the record straight and to add some clarity to your understanding of "estate jewelry."<br />
<br />
Where jewelry and gems are concerned, just because something is "old" does <i>not </i>mean it offers a better product or better value. While this might be the case, all-too-often it is not. Where old jewelry is concerned, the more attentive one needs to be to making sure the gem(s) in the "jewel" are <i>really</i> what they appear to be!<br />
<br />
In my experience, the older the piece, the more attentive one must be. Stones in old pieces are often not what they appear to be, nor what the owner believes them to be. When examined for the first time by gemologists from the Gemological Laboratory of Great Britain in London, the famous "Black Prince's Ruby" that adorns the Queen's Imperial State Crown was found to be something quite different from a ruby. It was discovered that the "ruby" was really a <i>red spinal</i>--a lovely, naturally occurring red gemstone, but one having a much lower value than that of ruby! If it can happen to royalty, it can happen to anyone, and I've seen numerous cases of "mistaken identity" based on a stone's color. In some cases where the stone is natural but not what the owner believed it to be, the value is usually lower, but in some rare cases, the stone is actually rarer and more valuable! <br />
<br />
I've also seen many garnet-topped doublets used in old jewelry, imitating stones of every color (this type of imitation is made by fusing a sliver of garnet to the top of an appropriately colored glass bottom, to create what appears to be a much more valuable gemstone). I've also seen "true" doublets in estate jewelry (as well as new jewelry) which are made by fusing together two parts of a genuine stone with a deeper-color bonding agent to create the appearance of a single, larger, much finer-color--and much more valuable--"gem." I've seen many "emerald" doublets made exactly this way: two layers of very pale, very inexpensive emerald held together by a rich, deep green bonding agent to imitate a much larger, much rarer, and much more valuable "gem" emerald! These are called "true doublets." <br />
<br />
I've seen jewelry with colored foil between the stone and the metal backing (which is closed so you can't see the stone's underside). This was not uncommon in the 18th century, and in some cases, the period of the jewelry and other workmanship adds so much value that it hardly matters, but you can be sure the original buyers never knew the "pink" topazes in their necklace, for example, were really colorless ... and much less valuable than the pink! Last, but far from least, I've seen many synthetic gems set into old settings that were made long before the synthetic now set within...antique or old settings are often used to dupe the buyer into believing the stone is "real" even though the stone could have been put in the setting yesterday.<br />
<br />
Having said all of this to stress the importance of knowing what you really have, there are also many wonderful estate pieces, containing rare gems, and showing intricate workmanship done by master artisans. There is also a distinctiveness in jewelry from by-gone days that makes it stand apart from what is more commonly available today, and the workmanship is often impossible to duplicate today, at any price! Certain "periods" such as the Edwardian period (turn of the 19th-20th century), and Art Deco period (following the Edwardian, from about 1910 - to approx 1930) or the increasingly popular "Retro" period (1940s) are also very collectible and one pays a premium for fine pieces from these periods, and even more if from a particular house, such as Tiffany or Cartier. Each period also reflects certain style characteristics and cutting styles/sizes in the stones used, which have a wonderful allure for many, including me. <br /> <br />
For anyone who loves estate jewelry, I recommend reading the sections I've provided on estate jewelry in two of my books (available from gemstonepress.com): in <b><i>Jewelry & Gems: The Buying Guide</i></b> (5th and 6th editions) I talk about what to look for, and what to look OUT for when buying estate jewelry, including the different style elements in each period, the major collectible jewelry houses, questions to ask vendors, what to get in writing, and how to check it out; in <i><b>Gem Identification Made Easy</b></i>" I devote a chapter to the types of fraud and deception used to imitate "gems" that are often encountered in estate jewelry (such as doublets) and the ways to detect them using simple, portable tools. I also have a book that deals primarily with estate jewelry -- <i><b>Jewelry & Gems At Auction. </b></i>While the book was published quite a while ago, the information pertaining to the various collectible periods, the major houses, the style elements of each period, as well as information related to what to look for and to look <i>out for, </i>is as current today as when first published, as is some invaluable information to help you understand the inner workings of the auction houses and how they affect the "pre-sale estimates," reserves, and actual selling prices. You can find out more about each at my publishers website -- www.gemstonepress.com<br />
<br />
In any event, I hope you'll find what I've written here useful and that after reading what I've written you'll understand why you can't take anything "for granted" about the stones in old jewelry. To quote one of my favorite historians-- <br />
<br />
"<i>To tell the truth, there is no fraud or deceit in the world which yields greater gain and profit than that of counterfeiting gems."</i><br />
<br />
This was written in the year 77AD, by the Roman historian, Pliny. Throughout history this has never changed...it has only become more sophisticated and technologically advanced! Antoinette Matlinshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15621798508510551819noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1292607881940115244.post-27192982058602484282012-10-26T11:14:00.000-07:002012-10-26T11:14:34.721-07:00Fluorescence, Lighting & Color-Grading Diamonds: Time To Re-Examine Its Impact and The Need For Change!
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">A few years ago, the Accredited Gemologists Association (AGA)
organized a lighting task force that investigated the impact of lighting on the
grading of fluorescent diamonds. Debate ensued, there was some positive impact,
but then the discussion abated and little was done. The time has come to
revisit this important topic. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Whether or not a diamond fluoresces, whether or not it is a good
thing or a bad thing, and how it affects what consumers are getting and paying,
are all issues the trade needs to address. Fluorescence is probably the
least-understand of all the factors affecting a diamond’s appearance and value,
and confusion and misunderstanding are rampant.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">No one can begin to understand or address the issues however
without understanding the root of the problem: the lighting used to determine
the color grade, and how changes over the past few decades have actually caused
most of the problems we have today. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -67.5pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -67.5pt;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">So here is a
brief summary of some of the findings from a research project undertaken
by the AGA (see <a href="http://www.accreditedgemologists.org/">www.accreditedgemologists.org</a>
for </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">for the full
story and research findings/conclusions). </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">FACTS:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 40.0pt; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">The color
shown on many diamond grading reports issued by labs globally indicates the
color seen </span></strong><em><b><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">only</span></b></em><strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> when exposed to sufficient UV emission to </span></strong><em><b><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">excite</span></b></em><strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> a
fluorescent reaction. </span></strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 40.0pt; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">This
is NOT the color usually seen when worn by consumers; a fluorescent
reaction is usually only excited when the diamond is worn outdoors, during
daylight hours. </span></strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Given today's lifestyles, most
people spend most of their time indoors during the day. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: 40.0pt; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<strong><span style="color: black; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span></strong><strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">This is NOT the color that will be seen when worn at night,
whether indoors or outdoors.</span></strong></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">CONCLUSION: </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;">
<strong><span style="color: black; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span></strong><strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">UV emissions
should be eliminated from the lighting </span></strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">in
which diamonds are being graded because<strong> failure to do so results in
over-grading of diamonds with "medium," "strong," and
"very strong" <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">blue</i>-fluorescence--which
account for close to 10% of all diamonds sold</strong><strong><span style="font-weight: normal;"></span></strong></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">UV emissions
should be eliminated from the lighting </span></strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">in
which diamonds are being graded because<strong> failure to do so results in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">under-grading </i>of the inherent body
color – the color most often seen when worn today – in yellow fluorescent
diamonds.</strong> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Blue
and yellow are the two fluorescent colors most often
present. Today, diamonds that fluoresce yellow will show their
inherent – and whiter – body color in most environments in which diamonds are
worn today; and in outdoor daylight, when fluorescence is stimulated, yellow
diamonds often look more fiery and possess a “warmer” color, that may be
desired by many diamond buyers.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;">
<strong><span style="color: black; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span></strong><strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Over-grading
results in over-pricing, even with discounts. The</span></strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> time is not far away when this will be the center of another
media exposé charging<strong> consumer fraud.</strong><strong><span style="font-weight: normal;"></span></strong></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Grading in a
UV-free lighting environment will provide the color that best reflects the
color most often observed,</span></strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> and as was
done historically, is in <strong>the best interest of consumers.</strong> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Diamond grading reports that
indicate the "stable" color of the diamond as its grade (that is,
when <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">no </i>fluorescence is<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> excited</i>,) with a <strong><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">comment</i></strong><strong><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"> </span></i></strong>that the diamond <strong><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">may</i></strong> <strong><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">look
whiter in some lighting environments </i>will remove the negative association
now connected with fluorescent diamonds.</strong> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;">
<strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>A
strong negative association to fluorescent diamonds </span></strong><strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">is pervasive because
of information on the internet and elsewhere.</span></strong><strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> </span></strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Retailers already see <strong>consumer avoidance
</strong>because consumers believe there is "something wrong" with
them, and that <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">prices are inflated</i>
<strong>for what they are getting. </strong><strong><span style="font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Currently prices <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">are</i> too high because the price is based
on an inflated color-grade. Grading the inherent body color (the color seen
when the diamond’s fluorescence is <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">not</i>
excited) will eliminate over-grading and over-pricing, and with this we will
also see a reversal of the negative bias. </span></strong></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In
summary, fluorescence in any fluorescent diamond is <em>not</em> being
excited when it is worn in most indoor environments--which is where
most people see their diamonds, most of the time, given today's life
styles. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Regardless
of indoor lighting conditions, there is insufficient UV emission to stimulate
the fluorescent response of a diamond. <strong><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Just think about it: if indoor lighting produced enough UV emissions to
excite a fluorescent reaction, and we exposed to them all day, every day, we'd
all be dying from cancer!</i> </strong></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <strong><span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">The color indicated on a grading report for
a fluorescent diamond graded under UV emissions is <i>not</i> always
representative of the color seen outdoors.</span></strong></span></b><strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"> </span></strong><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></b><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Sometimes the color is even whiter than indicated, even when
the grade on the report is "D"; a couple diamonds in the AGA study
that had been graded D and E actually appeared “light blue" oudoors in
daylight! <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>[This
results from a number of variables affecting the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">intensity</i> of the UV radiation to which the diamond is being exposed
– which is affected by such variables as time of day, altitude, air pollution,
and so on – and the strength of the diamond’s fluorescent reaction. Thus, the
fluorescent reaction can be stronger or weaker than the conditions present in
the diamond-grading light unit under which the color was graded.] </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Industry
organizations continue to argue about this, but the science is
irrefutable. There are insufficient wavelengths of UV to stimulate a
fluorescent reaction in fluorescent diamonds when worn indoors; regardless
of whether or not the room is flooded with light, even daylight, the UV
emissions present are negligible at best. When a consumer/retailer is only a
few inches from a glass windowpane (even plain untreated glass) the UV is
greatly diminished; when only a few inches away from a UV-emitting light
source, the same is true.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span> And
last, but not least, another factor that can't be ignored is that more and
more homes and offices are moving away from fluorescent bulbs to LED lighting,
which contains insufficient UV emission to stimulate any fluorescent reaction
in any stone. This means that <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">any</i>
rationale that some have used at one time – however flawed* – to justify <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">allowing UV emissions </i>in a diamond-grading
light source will soon be <strong><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">obsolete</span></i></strong>.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">* When indoor
lighting moved from incandescent to fluorescent lighting, some believed that
the fluorescent lighting present in any indoor environments containing them
were sufficient to stimulate a fluorescent reaction in any diamond that
fluoresces. Thus, any diamond that fluoresced blue, would look whiter, and any
that fluoresced yellow would look more yellow. Thus, it was thought that
allowing UV emissions in the diamond-grading lighting units would be more representative
of the color that would be seen most often. This flawed logic resulted from a
lack of knowledge</span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> </span><span style="color: black; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">pertaining to the physics of light. </span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
Antoinette Matlinshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15621798508510551819noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1292607881940115244.post-61657876765658786822012-08-30T12:16:00.000-07:002012-08-30T12:16:07.927-07:00The Allure Of Gemstones – Keeping The Sparkle In Your Asset<div class="format_text entry-content">
Article orginally posted on chubbcollectors.com on August 21, 2012. <br />
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<i>"To tell the truth there is no fraud or deceit in all the world which yields greater gain and profit than that of counterfeiting gems."</i> From The 37th Book of the Historie of the World by Pliny, 77 AD. <br />
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Whenever stock markets fluctuate widely and global economic forecasts are uncertain, there is stronger interest in tangible assets. Diamonds and colored gemstones are among the rarest and most desired of all things and have also performed well historically, so it is no surprise that they are again gaining the attention of investors, who have an unusual opportunity today. Changes in the types of gemstones now on the market also put investors at greater risk however; the term “natural” is used <i>only</i> to distinguish gems created by nature from “synthetic” gems made in labs or factories. Today, most “natural” gems are, in reality, treated in some way. <br />
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<em>Left: Exceptionally rare, naturally beautiful, 5.42 carat flawless Zambian emerald. Center: Exceptionally rare color and clarity in 10.00 carat natural Afghan Ruby. Right: Superb 21.25 carat natural Burma Sapphire.</em> Photos by David Nassi of 100% Natural Ltd. <a href="http://www.supernaturalgems.com/" target="_blank">www.supernaturalgems.com</a><br />
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For many decades most sapphires and rubies have been heated to improve color and clarity, and most emeralds contain some type of filler to reduce the visibility of fractures typical of the extreme geological conditions under which they form. With each passing year we find new treatments and a wider variety of gemstones being "improved." Unless a gemstone is accompanied by documentation from a respected gem testing laboratory stating that the gemstone is both “natural” <i>and</i> has not been treated in any way, one must assume the gemstone <i>could</i> have been treated. <br />
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<i>Exquisite antique Tiffany brooch centering 8.32 carat natural Burmese Sapphire, with natural pearls and diamonds. </i>Photo by David Nassi of 100% Natural Ltd. <a href="http://www.supernaturalgems.com/" target="_blank">www.supernaturalgems.com</a> <br /><br /><br />There is nothing wrong with buying or selling treated gemstones. In fact, were it not for the use of treatments, only the wealthiest among us would be wearing gemstone jewelry today. But it is still possible to find natural gemstones that have not been enhanced; it is these that are becoming rarer and rarer, and these that investors should be seeking. <br />
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In the diamond industry, people are paying close attention to the rate at which prices for large diamonds (over five carats) of very fine quality (D-F color/FL – VS2 clarity) have been escalating over the past year, with no indication of reversal. All of the major auction houses are seeing record-setting prices: at a recent Sotheby’s auction in Geneva, five diamond lots—with stones ranging from 10.69 carats (D/VVS1) to18.00 carats (G/VS2)—sold for over $1,000,000! The historic 34.98 carat Beau Sancy diamond, a stone with a royal history going back over 400 years, fetched $9.7 million dollars, almost five times its pre-auction estimate, and it is <i>not</i> of exceptional quality; its color is very tinted (K) and it is slightly included (SI1 clarity). The following month an 8.01 carat fancy-color <i>vivid blue</i> diamond with VVS1 clarity fetched $13 million in Hong Kong. <br />
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<img align="right" border="0" src="http://www.chubbcollectors.com/vacnews/images/article_images/299_3.gif" /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><i>Historic "Beau Sancy" pear-shape double-rose cut diamond weighing 34.98 carats. From the Royal House of Prussia.</i> Photo: Courtesy Sotheby's. Reprinted with permission of <a href="http://www.sothebys.com/en.html" target="_blank">Sotheby's</a>.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
There are also unusual opportunities for fine, rare, colored gemstones with documentation that no enhancement has been used; for the finest quality natural gemstones, documentation of origin (such as Burma for ruby, Kashmir for sapphire, Colombia for emerald, and so on) can also affect value. Demand for such stones is rapidly outpacing supply, and I see this gap widening over the next 10 years as wealth continues to spread to more people globally and the markets for precious stones expands in Southeast Asia and China. Demand and appreciation for rare, naturally beautiful colored gemstones will probably outpace diamond performance. Record-breaking auction prices for emeralds, rubies and sapphires are driving up prices dramatically. At Christie’s in Geneva, a brooch centering a 47.15 carat natural sapphire of Burma origin brought $3.6 million dollars, almost six times its pre-auction estimate of $482,000-$590,000. At Sotheby’s Geneva sale, a ring with a natural ruby weighing 7.66 carats reached $1.12 million dollars, almost twice the pre-auction estimate. At Christie’s Hong Kong sale a month later, a ring containing a 6.04 carat ruby of Burma origin hit $3.3 million, a record $551,000 per carat, well over its pre-auction estimate. <br />
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There have also been significant price increases in less-well-known natural gemstones such as<i>alexandrite, spinel</i> and <i>tsavorite</i>. An amazing red spinel necklace (an Indian Moghul piece) set a world record for spinel in 2011, at $5,210,902. In Christie’s recent Hong Kong sale, a ring with a 15.58 carat alexandrite sold for $934,480. (Alexandrite has been sought by connoisseurs for many years, but never at such prices). Spinels and tsavorite (a rare emerald-green variety of the garnet family) used to sell for a few hundred dollars per carat in the finest quality; these natural beauties are now several thousand dollars per carat. <br />
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Most experts agree that prices will go much higher. Supporting this are gloomy predictions about the fact that mine production has been decreasing and extraction costs increasing. Since diamonds and gemstones represent a very small percentage of their total profits, it is expected that many leading mining companies will withdraw from gemstone mining and focus much more heavily on more profitable minerals and metals. Minor players will not have the resources to invest in expensive exploration and extraction. <br />
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These predictions, if accurate, combined with increasing demand from emerging economies, point to continued price increases, as well as far more artificially enhanced material entering the market. We're already seeing it; the character of the gem industry is changing. Many treatments can be easily detected by experienced gemologists, but some require sophisticated testing only available at major gem testing laboratories such as the American Gemological Laboratories (New York, NY) or the Gemological Institute of America (New York , NY and Carlsbad, CA). When considering any gemstone investment, having a report from a respected gem-testing laboratory is essential. <br />
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A sound investment in gemstones also requires the ability to obtain what you want at prices as close as possible to "wholesale" or below. You cannot buy “retail” and then sell back to a jeweler and expect to make money. Other sources of fine, rare gems, include auctions, estate sales; even flea markets and pawnshops. <br />
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We are also seeing a re-emergence of private diamond and colored gemstone investment funds, and I can’t overstate the importance of taking time to learn before considering investment. In the late 1970s, when Wall Street “discovered” “diamonds and gemstones, virtually all of the popular investment publications such as Business Week, Fortune magazine and others began to recommend them to investors. Investment houses specializing in diamond and gemstone funds sprang up across the country. Many of them succeeded in conning buyers out of tens of thousands of dollars or more. Investors knew nothing about the products or the market dynamics. There were no books to help lay people understand the ways in which gemstones could be created, duplicated or altered to look better than they really were. With the Wall Street impetus, it didn’t take long for diamond prices to strengthen. In 1978, the wholesale price of a 1-carat diamond of the rarest quality (D/FL) was around $6,100; by March of 1980 the <i>wholesale</i> price of such a stone had soared to $62,000! In September, 1981, the price for that same quality stone plunged to $23,000, and by 1985, it bottomed out at about $9,600 per carat. Some investors, conned into buying fakes, lost everything they’d invested. Some purchased stones in sealed containers, with warnings—if the seal was broken, all buy-back guarantees were voided. Shockingly, many didn’t realize that if you couldn’t remove the stone from the sealed container there was no way to know if it was what it was represented to be! The same scenario occurred with colored gemstones, where the absence of universal grading standards made it even easier to exploit investors. <br />
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There are still many pitfalls, but in my opinion, the world of diamonds and gemstones has changed in ways that provide unique investment opportunities for the serious investor. It is still true that investment risk is greater with diamonds and gemstones because of the scientific complexities. As with other specialty investment areas, successful investment requires extensive knowledge, or the availability of expert counsel to guide you in making a careful selection, one stone at a time. <br />
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Today however, there is also much more information available about what to look for and how to avoid the risks. There are quicker, easier ways confirm the facts. There is greater awareness of the quality factors that affect rarity, desirability and value. There is greater due diligence with regard to verifying facts before money changes hands. <br />
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The best advice I can offer? The wisest initial investment in diamonds or gemstones is to take the time to learn as much as possible about their sparkling history and allure, about the factors that set one apart from the other, and about the hidden <i>dangers</i> as well as the delights! </div>
Antoinette Matlinshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15621798508510551819noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1292607881940115244.post-62820352329267076112012-07-18T11:46:00.001-07:002012-07-18T11:46:45.175-07:00The Gem Merchant by David Stanley Epstein<br />
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David
Stanley Epstein's first edition of<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><b><i>The
Gem Merchant<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></i></b>was great, but
as anyone in the gem trade knows, the only thing constant is change! Here
Epstein has done a thorough update which is an even more valuable resource than
the first edition. Not only is this a book that should be read by someone
interested in becoming a gem dealer (or rather, a <i>successful </i>gem
dealer) but it is equally valuable for those who are simply interested in
knowing more about gemstones and understanding the marketplace. It may be
a compact book in terms of its size, but it provides extensive information on
the gemstones themselves, and how to judge their quality and market
desirability. After reading this book, not only will you become a more savvy
buyer, but you'll avoid many costly mistakes and pitfalls along the way. <o:p></o:p></div>
<u1:p></u1:p>Antoinette Matlinshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15621798508510551819noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1292607881940115244.post-29414762684485725232012-07-09T09:08:00.003-07:002012-07-09T09:08:46.782-07:00YOU Can Help FTC In Revising Its “Guides For The Gem and Jewelry Trade”<style>
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The Federal Trade Commission has advised the jewelry
trade that it is seeking comments from organizations and individuals—including
the public—pertaining to ways they can revise the current guides to make them
more effectiveness in protecting the public from fraud and misrepresentation.
Of particular interest to the FTC are problems related to purchases of
lead-glass/ruby imitations sold to consumers as genuine ruby by jewelry stores
across the country, often with respected names. <br />
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"Anyone who has bought any ruby jewelry in the past few years, should
immediately <br />
seek confirmation from an independent gemologist-appraiser that the ruby
purchased is, in fact, a ruby," warns well-known gemologist and author
Antoinette Matlins. Matlins was among the first to warn the public about this
product several years ago, in her book<em><span style="font-family: Cambria;">
Jewelry & Gems: The Buying Guide</span></em> and on ABC's Good Morning
America (for more, please visit <a href="http://antoinettematlins.com/pressroom.html">http://antoinettematlins.com/pressroom.html</a>).
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The timing is critical because the FTC is seeking comments specifically from
people who have purchased lead-glass products unknowingly. Unfortunately, this
isn't as straightforward as it might appear because <strong><span style="font-family: Cambria;">most people who have them don't yet know it!</span></strong>
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These ruby-look-alikes were introduced about 6 years ago in small quantity but
began to flood the market within a few years. "Today many are being sold
as genuine ruby by unsuspecting jewelers, at highly inflated prices,"
explains Matlins. <br />
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Looking back, part of the problem is that when these stones were first
introduced, they were thought to be a new type of "treated" ruby; no
one realized that these contained "lead" glass, or how much glass was
actually in them, or how dramatically different they were from ruby, in every
way. This is one reason the vendors were able to sell them. The realization
that these were something very different took time to understand, and today <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">the Gemological Institute of America (GIA)
identifies them as "manufactured products,"</b> <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">joining</b> <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">American Gemological
Laboratories (AGL) and other labs in recognizing them as an
"artificial" product that cannot be sold as "genuine." <br />
</b><br />
But vendors are still selling them as genuine rubies to retailers, and
retailers are still selling them to customers…and at prices much, much higher
than the few dollars per carat at which they sell at gem shows around the
world. <br />
<br />
<strong><span style="font-family: Cambria;">Consumers AND Jewelers Have Been
Conned… But Now It Can Be Stopped!</span></strong> <br />
<br />
Matlins stresses that the scale of this problem is unprecedented because so
many have been sold unknowingly by jewelers themselves. According to Matlins,
the changing dynamics of the jewelry industry have played a role in creating
such a situation, especially the big chains and mass-marketers selling jewelry,
which are run by people who have no gemological background. They have no idea
how many treatments, imitations and synthetics are in the marketplace and, as a
result, they often hire buyers who are inadequately trained, people with
merchandising backgrounds but who also lack gemology training. Buyer focus is
increasingly shifting from the quality and value of the product to meeting the
financial expectations of management. This combination leads to merchandise
managers making buying decisions based almost entirely on the "price"
– if one product looks as good as another (or BETTER as in the case of
lead-glass "rubies") and the price is cheaper, that's what they buy
because they think it gives them a competitive advantage by selling at more
competitive prices. But they don't really know what they're buying! <br />
<br />
Matlins tells of her own recent experience in Las Vegas at one of the largest
jewelry trade shows in the world. She watched as the line snaked from within
the booth of a major company out into the corridors, with buyers patiently
waiting to gain entry to place their orders. She watched as they looked at the
jewelry, and ordered one piece after another. "Not one buyer even pulled
out a loupe (the jewelers magnifying lens always used by trained professionals)
to check the stones, the quality of workmanship, or anything else"! She
was quite appalled, and explained that this was because many lacked the skill
to even know how to use one. Even worse, she explained that many buyers for
major jewelry store chains think they can simply "trust the vendor" …
and this vendor is now a very successful vendor, and one of the biggest
financial supporters of major organizations. <br />
<br />
Unfortunately, Matlins knew from her own first-hand experience with this same
vendor is one of the largest sellers of these lead-glass infused imitations,
that they know exactly what they are selling, that they mislead the buyers into
thinking that they are getting genuine rubies and top quality diamonds, and
that the prices they are charging are highly inflated for what the buyers are
really getting. <br />
<br />
We know where this leads – the buyers stock their stores with these artificial
ruby pieces, add their own retail mark up, and sell them to customers as
genuine rubies, at exorbitant prices. "It's a lose-lose situation for
everyone," says Matlins, because many are being sold in stores where we
put our trust. <br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><br />
<strong><span style="font-family: Cambria;"> Lead-Glass Rubies Being Sold
Everywhere! </span></strong><br />
<br />
</b>In addition to jewelry stores in the USA, beware of purchases in port
cities, online sites such as ebay, and a variety of auction venues. These are
all major sources of lead-glass products misrepresented as rubies. <br />
<br />
Stores in major ports are selling them by the thousands; cruise passengers are
at especially high risk where these stones are concerned. Matlins most recent
experience was in Key West, FL, in mid-June. "I went into a jewelry store
and saw a lovely "ruby" ring in the showcase., priced at $8,400; the
tag indicated the ruby weighed 2.34 carats. When I showed interest in it, he
removed it for me to see more closely, explaining as he did so that they are
really wholesalers, and the price shown on the tag is the price I would see in
most retail jewelry stores, but the actual cost was much less. He further
explained that they buy all of their own "rough" stones, cut the
rough into the lovely gems they sell, and that they also make all their own
jewelry, passing on all of the savings along the way to their customers. And in
addition to all of this, they were having their annual "end of June"
sale so the cost was 40% less than the normal wholesale price. The actual cost
– if I purchased it that week – would be only $1,600! How could I refuse such a
bargain –an $8,400 value for $1,600! <br />
<br />
THEN I took out my loupe. The "ruby" was a lead-glass imitation. Its
actual "retail" price SHOULD have been around $350 – $400 (for the
gold setting and the diamonds; the retail value of the ruby was about $30). So
the bargain was not a bargain at all, and anyone buying that ring at $1,600,
will be paying an exorbitant price, approximately 4 times a full retail price.
This particular firm has a couple stores in Key West and other places, and
consumers buying from this jeweler are being misled and paying much more than
the product is worth. In short, they are victims of fraud and
misrepresentation." <br />
<br />
<strong><span style="font-family: Cambria;">What's Wrong With Them…They Look
Great! </span></strong></div>
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<br />
Matlins is very quick to point out there is nothing wrong with the product if
properly described and priced. "In fact," says Matlins, "I made
some very pretty earrings for my teenage granddaughter using them, and she
loves them; but I only paid $20 for the two "rubies"! She points out
that they make great costume jewelry because they really look like the real
thing, and you don't have to worry if you lose them or if they break! But the
problem is the scope of the misrepresentation and exploitation of unsuspecting
buyers. <br />
<br />
We don't know how many have been sold to date, but we know they've been sold
for several years, and are still being sold, in stores with good reputations.
Most people purchasing from a store with a good reputation never bother to get
independent confirmation about what they purchased. Herein lies the problem,
because where these are concerned, failure to do so will result in your being
stuck with a stone for which you have over-paid by an enormous factor. More
importantly, people have certain expectations where "ruby" is
concerned, but these "manufactured products" won't meet those
expectations because they are NOT ruby and they lack the characteristics that
have made ruby so highly prized and desired. <br />
<br />
Genuine rubies are very durable and have been passed down throughout history,
generation to generation. This is not the case with these imitations; they are
very vulnerable to damage and breakage just in the course of normal wear.
Common substances like lemon juice that accidentally splattered onto your stone
will cause a whitish etching that will permanently mar the beauty. Little nicks
and chips occur much more easily around the edge. And worse yet, if you take
any piece of jewelry containing one to a jeweler to have anything done, such as
re-sizing a ring, or changing the setting, it can be quickly, horribly – and
irreparably – damaged! Where these "rubies" are concerned, this is
not the fault of the jeweler! The jeweler has done nothing wrong, but these
lead-glass rubies are quickly damaged by the normal techniques that have been
used for centuries on ruby. But now we have another "victim"—not only
has the consumer been deceived in terms of what they purchased, but the
innocent "bench" jeweler gets blamed and suffers irreparable damage
to his reputation, as well as the out of pocket cost in replacing the stone. <br />
<br />
"But now," urges Matlins, "consumers can do something about
it." <br />
<br />
Revising the FTC guides as they pertain to this product is essential if we are
to stop the unscrupulous from selling them as "ruby," but we need the
public's help in ascertaining the scope of the problem. You can take an active
role and help make a real difference in reducing consumer fraud and
misrepresentation where these lead-glass products are concerned. <br />
<br />
But first you need to know what <em><span style="font-family: Cambria;">you</span></em>
really purchased. You may not be a victim, but the only way to know for sure is
to get an independent appraisal from someone with reliable credentials. <br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Prestigious
Group Offers Public Free Ruby Verification </span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.25in; margin-right: -.25in; margin-top: 0in;">
As an incentive to get an
independent appraisal, and to make it easier for people to find a qualified
professional, the Accredited Gemologists Association (AGA) is offering help. </div>
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If you or anyone you know has purchased
ruby jewelry in the past few years, here is an excellent opportunity to verify
whether or not it is genuine. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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Members of the Accredited
Gemologists Association have volunteered to do identification of rubies or ruby
jewelry purchased in the past 3 years – <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">at
no charge</b> – if the owner agrees to send a letter to the FTC should they
discover that their ruby is not genuine. To find an AGA member near you, go to <span style="color: #3366ff;"><a href="http://www.accreditedgemologists.org/members2.php"><span style="color: #3366ff;">http://www.accreditedgemologists.org/members2.php</span></a>.
</span></div>
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If there is no AGA member near
you, Matlins recommends checking with the American Society of Appraisers (<a href="http://www.appraisers.org/">www.Appraisers.org</a>) to locate a qualified
appraiser in your area. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.25in; margin-right: -.25in; margin-top: 0in;">
If you discover you purchased one
of these stones unknowingly, just send a letter to the FTC telling them when
you made the purchase, where it was purchased, what you were told re: the
identity of the stone, how much you paid, whether or not you<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>were told specifically about the need
for extreme care when wearing or repairing them, and how the seller handled the
situation when you found out and confronted them; if you could no longer locate
the seller, this is important to indicate as well. They would also like to have
copies of any “documentation” and/or “appraisal” provided by the seller. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.25in; margin-right: -.25in; margin-top: 0in;">
To post comments directly with
the FTC, visit:</div>
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<span style="color: #3366ff; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="http://ftc.gov/ftc/regreview/fednotices.shtml#jewelry">http://ftc.gov/ftc/regreview/fednotices.shtml#jewelry</a></span></div>
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<br /></div>Antoinette Matlinshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15621798508510551819noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1292607881940115244.post-86752294778582031592012-05-01T10:11:00.002-07:002012-05-01T14:08:18.511-07:00Troops Should Be Seeing Red<br />
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Troops Should Be Seeing Red<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b>By Antoinette Matlins, PG<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b>Author of <i>Jewelry & Gems: The
Buying Guide</i> (GemStone Press, USA)<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
For thousands of years, rubies
have been sought and treasured, prized as one of the most valuable of all
things on Earth. A fine ruby has everything a precious stone should have —
magnificent color, shimmering brilliance, extreme rarity, and excellent
hardness and overall durability. Such stones command high prices, and the
finest and rarest rubies are among the costliest of all gems, costlier than sapphires,
emeralds, and even the finest colorless diamonds. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
So of course, when stationed in,
or near, gem-producing countries, it is only natural for our troops to be
looking for a beautiful ruby, or other gem, to bring back home. But today, rubies
are quickly losing there sparkle for many military personnel returning to the
states only to learn they didn’t get what they bargained for. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
An ever-increasing number have
become the unsuspecting victims of a costly scam in which they are sold what
appear to be beautiful, sparkling rubies—at bargain prices “because they are so
close to the mines” or for some other equally compelling reason—only to find
out when they get home that they are not real rubies at all, but fakes! In
fact, what they are buying is a “blend” – a composition of extremely poor
quality <i>corundum</i> which has been
infused with a huge amount of tinted
lead-glass (corundum is the mineral known as “ruby” only when it occurs in a
lovely red color, and “sapphire” when it occurs in other lovely colors
including blue and yellow). Gem testing laboratories are calling these a
“lead-glass composite ruby” or a “manufactured product.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
To make matters worse, while
these lead-glass products <i>look</i>
pretty, they are very fragile. They can break much more easily in the course of
normal wear—an accidental knock or blow can do it—and simple cleaning
solutions, <i>even lemon juice</i>, can
damage them. Worse yet, they can crumble apart when a jeweler goes to set them
into a piece of jewelry, or remount them into a new piece. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
There is nothing wrong with
buying one of these lead-glass/ruby composites as long as you know what you are
buying, pay an appropriate price – such stones in sizes under 3 carats should
sell at a jewelry store for <i>under</i> $25
per carat – and as long as you understand the type of extreme care that is
required to keep them looking lovely. However, this is usually not the case.
Most buyers are led to believe they are paying much less than the stone is
really worth, and <b>some have been
encouraged to buy them in quantity for re-sale at a profit upon returning home,
to earn some extra money in these tough economic conditions.</b> Gemologists
and appraisers across America are seeing them in alarming numbers, but by the
time they see them, it is too late for our troops; the money is gone, and
they’re stuck. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
Internationally respected gem
testing labs are finding that many, if not most, contain more glass than
anything else. Composite stones are not new, but these are produced in a
different manner than old-fashioned composite stones, and as a result, went
undetected until recently. The World Jewellery Confederation known as CIBJO (an
affiliation of organizations from 40 nations and whose mission is, among other
things, to protect consumers) does not recognize composite stones as genuine
gemstones. CIBJO defines composite stones as: <strong>"</strong><em><b>artificial</b></em><strong>
products composed of two or more, previously separate, parts or layers
assembled by bonding or other artificial methods." </strong><strong><span style="font-weight: normal;">And this is exactly what
we find in composite rubies…and exactly what is being sold to troops abroad by
unscrupulous vendors.<o:p></o:p></span></strong></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;">
In the USA, it is a violation of
FTC guidelines to sell any composite stone or manufactured product without
disclosing what it is. Furthermore, when a treatment reduces the durability of
the stone, the FTC requires disclosure of this fact as well. Nonetheless, these
stones are being sold extensively without any disclosure that they are
composite, and without mention of the need for special care. <strong><span style="font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></span></strong></div>
<div style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<b><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 14pt;">What Can The
Troops Do?<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">1.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">Buy
any ruby—or any fine gem—only from a reputable source, ideally one who is a
gemologist or has an on-staff gemologist or gemologist consultant working with
them for quality control purposes. Your base BX, post PX, or AAFES catalog, is
an excellent source, at home or abroad. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 5.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 5.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">2.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">Ask
whether or not the ruby has been treated*, and if so, what type of treatment. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 5.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 5.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">3.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">Ask
whether or not any special care is required, and if so, what type of care.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 5.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 5.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">4.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">Make
sure to get all of this information in writing, on the sales receipt (and if
told that it is natural, get this in writing, too).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 5pt; margin-left: 0.5in; margin-right: -0.5in; margin-top: 5pt; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">5.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">Verify
what you have purchased by taking it to a qualified gemologist-appraiser. A
more complete list of questions and information pertaining to selecting a
reliable appraiser can be found in any of Antoinette Matlins’ books, including <i>Jewelry & Gems: The Buying Guide. </i>Matlins’
books can also be found at your local exchange……<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: #E9E0ED; margin-right: -.5in;">
Members of the
Accredited Gemologists Association (AGA) are willing to provide free IDENTIFICATION
for any consumer who suspects they may have a composite ruby. Please contact
the AGA at <a href="http://www.accreditedgemologists.org/"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">www.accreditedgemologists.org</span></a>
to find an AGA member in your area who can help. Note: The free service is for
IDENTIFICATION only. It does not include an appraisal or valuation of the
stone, although these services may also be provided for a fee.<b><o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">___________________________________________________________<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"><b><br /></b></span></div>
<div style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">*
Today gemstone buyers must understand there are two general categories of
gemstones: <i>treated</i> and <i>natural</i> (that
is, not enhanced in any way). Rubies have been routinely enhanced by a variety
of techniques for almost half a century, and are well accepted within the
trade. The most common type of treatment for ruby is <i>heating</i>, which improves the color and clarity to varying degrees.
Today anyone buying a ruby should assume it’s been heated (and possibly treated
in other ways) unless there is documentation from a respected laboratory
confirming that it is entirely natural. Natural rubies (that is, rubies that
have not been enhanced in any way) are among the rarest of all things—an
exceptional 8.60 carat <i>natural</i> ruby
sold at auction for $3.6 million dollars, $465,000 <i>per carat! </i>The price of this extraordinary gem reflected the
extreme rarity of anything comparable in today’s market—its pure red color,
high clarity, and brilliance, all found together in a stone of such large size.
The price of rare natural rubies as seen in the case of the 8.60 carat gem
exemplifies the underlying reason for the introduction of treatments: the
increasing scarcity of beautiful rubies. This is what led to the introduction
of techniques to improve the appearance of natural gems. Natural rubies of the
finest color and clarity were disappearing; the mines were depleted and supply
couldn’t keep up with demand. Heating techniques were introduced in an effort
to provide beautiful rubies (and sapphires and other gems as well) at prices
people could still afford. Otherwise, only the world’s wealthiest would be able
to dream of owning magnificent rubies or other gems today! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">In
addition to the routine heating of ruby, there are various other treatments
used today, and varying degrees of treatment. Treated rubies are priced
according to the type of treatment used, how extensively it was treated, and
the overall post-treatment appearance compared to that of other similarly
treated rubies. There can be minor glass residue in small surface-reaching
cracks, and when unsightly cracks detract from the beauty of an otherwise
beautiful ruby, they can be filled with glass to reduce their visibility; these
are called glass-filled rubies. With so many treatments now used on rubies,
many fine jewelry stores only sell rubies that have been submitted to
gem-testing laboratories and each stone is accompanied by laboratory
documentation. When present, treatments are indicated on the reports. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<b><i><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 11pt;">But “treated” rubies should not be confused with “rubies”
made from multiple pieces of low-quality corundum fused together with
red-tinted glass.</span></i></b><i><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></i><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">“Treated” rubies
are <i>single </i>stones that have been
improved in some way to look more attractive. Some were lovely even prior to
treatment, the treatment simply having made them even more attractive.
Composite rubies are an altogether different thing, much less durable, and of
much lower value. </span><i><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div style="margin-right: -.5in;">
<br /></div>
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<br /></div>Antoinette Matlinshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15621798508510551819noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1292607881940115244.post-1989293783723327112012-04-03T09:59:00.001-07:002012-04-03T09:59:37.407-07:00"All-Diamond" Ring Raises Questions<br />
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I’m sure many of you have seen the media surrounding what is being touted as the “world’s largest diamond RING” created by the Swiss jeweler Shawish!</div>
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At $68,000,000, and from the sketches they’ve shown, one is led to believe the ring is fashioned entirely from the same stone. This brings many questions to my mind. First, if you have seen the video and some of the images in the press, it appears to have been cut from a much larger “briolette” cut diamond—which from the images would indicate a diamond in excess of 300 carats, which would certainly have ranked it among the world’s largest diamonds. So do we know of this diamond by another name? And if not, why not? And if one had such a diamond, it must certainly have had a diamond grading report, but there is no description of the quality, especially color and clarity. And what was done with the center portion of the original diamond—a nice carving perhaps, for the vanity table of the owner of the ring? I think this would be very revealing!</div>
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More important to my practical nature, if you have such an important diamond, why re-cut it and lose so much weight? Especially in light of the fact that there is always a risk in re-cutting any diamond? And then, of course, I must ask how would one “re-size” it for a particular finger?</div>
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I’m also wondering who cut it; it would take a master diamond cutter.</div>
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Of course, we’re all assuming it’s fashioned from a natural, single diamond. But is this an accurate assumption? It’s becoming more and more difficult to know for sure whether or not a diamond is natural or lab-grown; at the moment, major labs are confident that they are able to distinguish natural from lab-grown, but with the amassed experience of diamond growers and technological advances, is this reality? There are rumors about large colorless lab-grown diamonds already in the market — a topic that will be addressed in a couple months at a major conference on the future of diamonds (for anyone interested in knowing more about the conference, visit the Accredited Gemologist Association website: www.accreditedgemologists.org).<br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" />I’m not suggesting this diamond ring is lab-grown, but it would certainly make much more sense if it were! Or if it were assembled from more than one diamond. In short, it raises lots of unanswered questions. I think this is a story to which we should all stay tuned!</div>Antoinette Matlinshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15621798508510551819noreply@blogger.com3